The population of Victoria is five million people, but I was the only one of them today on the summit of our second-highest peak, Mt Feathertop.

The mountain was awe inspiring, humbling, powerful and beautiful in a mesmerising package of contradictions.

Normally I have Friday spare to pursue private business, but I swapped it for today to take advantage of the fine weather for my first proper bush walk in nine months.

My last ascent of Feathertop was via the easier Razorback route in November 2003. The forecast for Mt Hotham was six degrees and in the valley we were expecting 20 with a light breeze.

I started just after 8.30am in Harrietville, where there was a light frost on the ground. We haven’t had a frost yet in Porepunkah, so it shows what a difference the extra 200 metres in altitude makes.

I elected to wear shorts and a short-sleeve shirt, with a jumper and jacket in my day pack. This proved a good choice, as I was soon working hard to climb through the ferns and ash forest. I never required the jumper though.

Harrietville stayed within view, and more prominently within earshot, for an hour or so. I found the ascent more gradual than those up Mt Buffalo and Mt Bogong, although my fitness is much improved also.

The lower views are less stunning than those on Buffalo, as intermediary peaks block the alps and valleys.

The first landmark was Picture Point, which looked down over Harrietville from about 900 metres, I would guess, although the view was limited.

The track continued climbing gradually to Tobias Gap and then upwards to the old Bungalow Hut site, where I rested for water and nibblies. A concrete slab, old cooking equipment and a few bottles mark the former hut site.

It was a kilometre or so from there to the former Feathertop Hut site, which had more open grassy areas and finally some views.

The next landmark, not much further on, was the restored Federation Hut. Built in 2004 after the bushfires, it looks like an historic cattlemen’s hut in style, but it’s much more comfortable, with benches, a modern fireplace for emergencies, clean floor, eco-friendly toilets and plenty of camping space.

It’s 2km from there to the summit, and I immediately felt the need for the jacket, as an icy wind ripped across the exposed ridge with force.

The Razorback Track joins up with the Bungalow Spur Track 1.5km from the summit. Although there was little wind at lower levels, the power of it here surprised me and I had to check my balance on several occasions.

Once at the top I burrowed down the sheltered side and had lunch. Out of the wind it was really quite pleasant and I managed to appreciate the splendid panorama of the North East.

This mountain attracts thousands of summer walkers, skiers and ice-climbing nuts in winter, but today I was the only soul there. I guess that late autumn is not really the best time to visit. There is no residual snow, like in the spring, and in summer the risk of freezing to death is somewhat less.

From the summit down to Federation Hut was challenging. My exposed legs weren’t cold, but my fingers went numb and when I couldn’t feel my nose I wasn’t sure if it was frost bitten or my fingers!

Back at Federation Hut again, out of the wind, it was pleasant to sit on the verandah and watch the world go by. With a laptop and mobile phone I could seriously shift my office up there.

The best thing about the gradual ascent, compared with Buffalo and Bogong, is the gradual descent. I don’t enjoy stumbling down mountains, watching every step, and this was a quick, easy return to Harrietville.

I actually ran in several places where the track was wide enough and not too steep.

I made it back to my car at 2.30pm exactly, completing the 22km hike in just under six hours.

Some facts about this walk for anyone interested (from “70 Walks in Victoria’s Bright and Falls Creek Districts” by Tyrone Thomas):

• Distance: 22km

• Rating: Hard

• Elevation: Commence at 560 metres and climb to 1922 metres

• Ascent: 1362 metres in 11km.